Frank's Gourmet Grille in East Lyme definitely delivers the goods:
By Joan Gordon, Norwich Bulletin on 2/21/2008

We had gone to an evening movie in Niantic and, just as with date nights of old, we craved a little something afterward. Coffee, dessert ... you know the feeling. After finding the few places near the theater already closed, we decided to try Frank’s Gourmet Grille. It was still open, and we had some fresh coffee, a frothy cappuccino and some wonderful sweets to complete our evening.

After that warm welcome and exceptionally pleasant service, we were eager to return for the whole nine yards: dinner. So the next Saturday evening, five of us, much in need of relaxation after a hectic day, once again placed ourselves in the good hands of the staff at Frank’s.

If you haven’t been there in a while, Frank’s has expanded. There is a real bar. Soft salmon-colored walls evince a soothing ambience. Tables are set fairly close together, napped in linen. Votives and flowers adorn each.

A simple, crusty bread and a somewhat bitter olive oil were brought to the table. They were a small detour from the excursion of exciting foods that followed.

We perused the menu and — in a nice touch — the written list of daily specials. We studied the seafood specialties, stuffed filet mignon and suggested wine pairings. Right away, we targeted the coconut shrimp for one of our entrées.

A large timbale of goat cheese rolled in chopped pistachios arrived warm from the oven. What a great starter. No way was I going to allow the garnishes to disappear back into the kitchen. The shallots, baby spinach and candied walnuts tossed in a champagne vinaigrette were a delight.

Clams casino followed, with hefty, sizzling slices of pancetta, peppers and hints of garlic. A large platter of grilled mussels was fabulous, seasoned to perfection. We had miles to go, with dinner still to come.

For those who wish to stick with appetizers only, Frank’s offers the option of upgrading their size for an additional $2.95. A pretty good deal.

Assorted salads come with all dinners.

Enticing entrées
Of the entrées, stuffed flounder was the tamest. Competently done, it came with a mixed seafood and cracker meal stuffing and a classic Newburg sauce. Expect traditional sauces at Frank’s, finished by the book. The veal Marsala reinforced that mantra. Escalloped and tenderized slices of veal were seared and robed in an intensely rich, almost port-like Marsala sauce. The meat was sided by little rounds of roasted red bliss potato cakes and sliced wild mushrooms.

Michael, who just loves rack of lamb, attacked his with gusto. Luckily for me, he was into sharing. Sweet, roasted garlic and the woodsy aroma of rosemary infused the demi-glace, which must have been rendering for a very long time.

A huge platter of veal osso buco was another favorite, and perfect for a chilly winter’s night. Because of the long hours of slow braising necessary for its preparation, this is not a frequent offering on most menus. The golden globs of marrow encased within the shank bone were divine. Some not-too-subtle maneuvering was required to get them out, but the deed was done. 

Our evening’s coup de crustacéen was a dish of colossal shrimp patted down with shredded coconut, pan seared (not fried) and deftly placed over a butternut squash risotto. Delicately glazed with a light Thai peanut sauce and strewn with those skinny, oh so French, haricots verts, the dish was a compilation of great textures and flavors. 

Only some of the desserts are house-made. We tried one of them — tiramisu, which was worth every calorie in it. The house-made bread pudding was creamy and laced with raspberry sauce and pistachios. A dense, rich, chocolate fudge layered cake had my husband diving in with glee. Lemon mascarpone cake would have benefited from more lemon.

People were waiting in the foyer for seating when we arrived, and it was the same when we left. There’s no doubt about it, Frank’s Gourmet Grille delivers the goods. 

In a nutshell: Great service, flavorful entrées. Grilled mussels, clams casino, osso buco and rack of lamb garnered praise. Don’t miss the house made tiramisu.

Frank's Place:
Frank's Gourmet Grille will soon celebrate 5 years of growth and great food.
By Eileen Jenkins, MARTKETPLACE WRITER Published on 10/1/2006 in Marketplace

Some friends you haven't seen in a while call and invite you to join them for dinner at their favorite place. You get directions and find yourself in a strip shopping center ... and quickly assume your pals have discovered a new grinder or pizza place. That's OK, but the way they raved about the place, you figured you were in for something a little more special.

Ah, but you are, if that particular strip center is located at 135 Boston Post Road in East Lyme. That's where Frank's Gourmet Grille has made its home for almost five years, with chef/owner Frank Grace at the helm, creating upscale food in an environment that's neither stuffy nor intimidating. That lack of pretension isn't driven by the surroundings. In fact, Grace is no fan of strip center architecture and tries his best to beautify the surroundings with pots of flowers.

No, the reason Frank's Gourmet Grille doesn't daunt casual diners is Grace himself. He loves food and wants others to love his food, such as the mahi-mahi that's lightly marinated and grilled, then served over wild mushroom risotto topped with a fresh fruit compound in vinaigrette. Or the veal t-bone that's also lightly marinated and served with a grilled vegetable ratatouille, roasted sweet potatoes and shallots and topped with a porcini mushroom-red wine reduction sauce. “This,” he says, pointing to the dishes on a nearby table, ”is about as crazy as I go. I don't like using components of food that are unfamiliar to most people. It just shouldn't be an intimidating experience.”

The same goes for his wines. “The whole philosophy on our wine list is affordable wines,” he says. “Even if we can call this 'big city food,' if you will, I don't want to get away from affordability. People know the names and they know what they pay for them at the package store. Who am I to charge three times that amount?”

By the time this magazine hits newsstands, the wine list and menu will have been expanded, just as the restaurant itself has since its opening in March of 2002. At that time, it only resided in one storefront of the shopping center — now it encompasses three. The right side of the restaurant is the original space and it holds the kitchen and open prep area, which gives diners an opportunity to experience the energy of a bustling restaurant (and see how clean it is), as well as the main dining room. About two years ago, the back of the dining area was expanded to provide more space and now it holds about 18 tables seating 64 guests.

During that remodel, the left side of the restaurant was also expanded into two additional storefronts to the left of the original. Right at the intersection of the two wings of the L-shaped strip center is the entryway to the restaurant, where there are display cases full of baked goods for takeout, and beyond that is the new tavern area, with seven four-top tables, two pub tables and six seats at the strikingly lit dark wood bar. A gas fireplace makes the space even cozier on chilly nights.

Asked how he describes his fare, Grace answers, “Prior to the new menu, we called it continental with a Mediterranean flair. But now I'd just call it good food done as good as we can do it.” “We” is his staff of 14 full-timers and 14 or 15 part-timers, who have contributed to the growth of his namesake establishment. In fact, thanks to his trusted staff, he thinks he'll be extending the hours he's open, adding a Sunday brunch and Monday dinner.

“The original hours were set when I was doing all the cooking,” he explains. “And it's hard to adjust to not being the full-time cook because I love it. It's easy to get lost in your own little world, just be back in the kitchen and have a waiter come up and say ,'They love their food.' That's all I need. I'm fired up.”

He got the food bug early, when he was 15. The owner of the Snapper Inn, a famous Long Island restaurant, approached Grace and some other boys who were fishing and asked if anybody wanted a job. He did, and became a pot washer at the restaurant that night. “They lit my apron on fire the first night,” he laughs. “I guess it was an initiation.”

He moved to the fry station when he was 16, the same year he cooked a complete meal for his family and knew he was hooked. But he took a slight detour, becoming a sonar tech in the Navy for a few years, ending up at the base in Groton. After his stint in the service was over, he went to work at the Steak Loft in Mystic and worked at a few other restaurants before deciding to study the culinary arts at Johnson & Wales in Providence.

Upon graduation he went back to the Steak Loft as kitchen manager, then bounced around some more. One job had him helping to set up The Longhouse restaurant at Mohegan Sun, and the genesis of Frank's Gourmet Grille began. “I saw everything,” Grace says, “the layout, menu, construction ... And I said, 'I can do this.'”

So he answered an ad about a turnkey business in New London and ended up purchasing the Broad Street Deli. After a year, he moved it to Hamilton Street in Shaw's Cove and changed the name to Frank's Shaw's Cove Deli. “I was there three years and doing a lot of corporate catering, yet it was all on the lunch theme,” he says. “I wanted to get back to what I love doing most: a dinner table with good people, good food, good wine, no hurry. That's my adrenaline rush.”

The restaurant has come a long way, but Grace has even more plans for it, including catering carryout and more. But he'll never abandon the core of the business. “The philosophy early on was to be a casually elegant dining experience,” he says, adding humbly, “and we have probably exceeded my expectations.”

A Cozy Corner: "Frank's Gourmet Grille is located in a cozy corner in East Lyme. You walk through the door and your greeted by a friendly host(ess). Once seated, your friendly server drops by with some olives and introduces him/herself. On the menu there are things such as Chicken/Veal Picatta, Chicken/Veal Marsala, Stuffed Chicken, Coquilles St. Jaques (Scallops), Pastas, and the Specials that always tempt me. You pay a good amount of money but they get you stuffed. They are not cheap with portions. If you aren't full enough after dinner. They have a dessert tray with about 10-15 desserts on it. There is something to tempt everyone. On your way out you will probably notice the beautiful bar and lounge. It's used as almost an extension of the dining room. They serve dinner or just cocktails in there. It's a great addition for the customers who have to wait for a table."

"A Grille restaurant that won't make you feel as though you are at an indoor barbecue. Frank's Gourmet Grille offers gourmet dining and grill in a relaxed, comfortable, and spacious atmosphere. Forget your previous notions of Grille before going to Frank's. Here you'll find innovative presentations of seafood, foul, poultry and, of course, top grade steaks. Full line of homemade salads and desserts."

Frank's is fabulous at Flander's Four Corners:
By Rick Koster Published on 2/16/2002 in The Day

"Frank's Gourmet Grille is a wonderful dining experience. The food is high-end quality at reasonable prices and the ambience, while welcoming and certainly nice, isn't stuffy..."

"Frank's is a pretty restaurant tucked in the back of a U-shaped strip center... you walk in and there's a dessert display counter... the menu offers a toothsome choice of classic recipes and Frank's own inventions... I opted for grilled brown-sugar rubbed pork tenderloin. My God! Other than marrying my wife, it may have been the best decision I've ever made."